|
Selecting Pearls
by Mary Olsen Kelly
 Most gem and jewelry lovers are far more educated about diamonds and other
gems than they are about pearls, and they often lack confidence when making
a purchase. Because this lack of understanding can be a detriment to the pearl producers,
organizations such as World Pearl Organization, Cultured Pearl Association, Tahiti Pearl
Association, Japan Pearl Promotion Society, and Australia's Licensed Pearl Producers are
dedicated to informing consumers how to make an intelligent buying decision. They believe
that the more the consumer learns about pearls, the more they will desire them.
When selecting pearls, always look first for luster. A high-luster pearl will show a sharp,
bright reflection. Roll the pearl to see the luster on all sides. Or, if the pearl is set
in a jewelry mounting, turn the piece in the light, looking at all sides of the pearl.
But consider all six of the criteria for evaluation, and strike a balance between these factors. You
may want the highest-quality luster and orient, and be willing to settle for a smaller pearl. Or
perhaps you will sacrifice some quality in luster or surface perfection to get a larger pearl.
Perfect pearls are rare. If it is real, there will almost always be one or two beauty marks, either
on the surface or within. Birthmarks and beauty marks that are not immediately visible to the
naked eye are more acceptable than those that are. A pearl with chipped nacre, for example, would
certainly be less acceptable. If you have any doubt about the legitimacy of a pearl, try the tooth test
by rubbing it gently along the top edge of your front bottom teeth. A genuine pearl will feel rough or sandpapery.
Educate yourself on the importance of each of the criteria, and then let your heart be your guide.
Buying a pearl is ultimately a personal choice.
Pearl Strands
 There are five well-known and accepted lengths for pearl necklaces. The following measurements are approximate.
The “choker” is usually 14 to 16 inches in length, lying just below the hollow of the neck.
The “princess” is 16 to 20 inches in length.
The “matinee” is 20 to 26 inches long.
The “opera” length is about 28 to 32 inches
The “rope” is anything longer than opera length.
Pearl strands can be either uniform in size or graduated. For uniform, the pearls are
all the same size. For graduated, the pearls gradually get larger toward the center of the
necklace. Graduated strands give the appearance of bigger pearls, because the largest are at the front of the necklace.
The pearls used in Akoya strands (white saltwater pearls) should match very closely and blend together
beautifully. When purchasing a pearl strand, it is a good idea to unclasp the ends, lay it straight on a
white cloth, and roll the pearls back and forth. Rolling will reveal blemishes and inconsistencies in the pearls.
Rolling will also allow you to check the pearls for luster, color, and match. It is normal for pearl strands
to have some beauty marks. Remember, this is an organic gem of the sea, not a glass or plastic bead.
Pearl strands should be restrung every one to two years, depending on how often they are worn. The pearls are
strung on silk, with knots tied between each pearl, and these knots can stretch and fray.
Devin Macnow of the Cultured Pearl Information Center says that for just one fine Akoya 16-inch necklace it
takes over 640,000 painstaking man/oyster hours to grow enough pearls that are evenly matched in terms of
luster, size, and color.
Caring for Pearls
Pearls are extremely durable when properly cared for, and their natural beauty is easy to maintain.
They love the moisture and oil from the skin, so wearing your pearls also conditions them.
Pearls are precious gems and should be treated as such. Keep them in a satin, velvet, or chamois bag, separated
from harder jewels that might scratch their surface.
Remember that pearls are produced by living organisms. Avoid contact with acidic substances, chlorine, and laundry
or dish washing detergents. Do not clean pearls with chemicals, abrasives, or ammonia, or with the jewelry cleaners
you would use for diamonds and harder gems; they are too abrasive. And be sure to put your pearls on after applying
cosmetics, hair spray, or perfume.
The Gemological Institute of America recommends a gentle wash with warm fresh water to clean pearls
effectively. Occasionally give them a gentle wipe with a soft natural cloth such as a chamois.
Wipe the pearl with a gentle downward motion, being careful not to twist it in its setting.
When well cared for, pearls can last many generations.
|
|
